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Indian mountaineers summit an unnamed peak





Tem Tapung (Arunachal Pradesh), Sabyasachi Samanta (West Bengal), Dr Avantika Kekan (Maharashtra), Dr Subhendu Sikder (West Bengal), Prakruti Alagudekar (Karnataka), Shubham Thapliyal (Uttarakhand) and Joy Das (West Bengal)


A team led by Subhajit Banerjee took on a challenging task -- exploring a new untested route in Lahaul valley, south of Ladakh. S
tarting from Manali on September 3, the team reached the summit after 10 days.  

“It’s a matter of pride for mountaineers that a new route has been opened! exclaims Dr Avantika Kekan, who was one of the two medicos in the team. 

The journey was far from easy, especially on the less-travelled mountain paths, where even the best laid plans can come to a naught. 




“During our 10-day expedition, we had only a two-day window of clear weather. It was snowing, some days it was windy. Our cook faced acute mountain sickness and had to be evacuated. At Camp 1, I had no idea that the water source froze overnight and it thawed after 10 am on clear day; I had to ration water for the team,” adds Subhajit, a professional mountaineer. Due to these challenges, the team fittingly named the new route, ‘Nirjala’ – meaning without water. 

When asked if he preferred leading a team on tried and tested popular route, or an unexplored peak, Subhajit chooses the latter. “Many expeditions in the Indian Himalayas attempt the same peaks again and again. I have an interest in unnamed, unclimbed peaks, discovering new routes. I want to give something to the sport,” he says.

Subhajit's team took photos, videos and GPS measurements of the summit, recording the height of the peak as 6,068 m (32° 53' 289" N, 77° 08' 745" E).

“According to a document found in Indian Mountaineering Foundation’s library, the first ascent on this peak was made in 2002, in the pre-GPS era, pegging its height as 6,030 m. Another team from UK and USA, led by Andy Nisbet in 2015, recorded the height of the summit 6,010 m. But we ascended the peak through a completely new route, the East face of the mountain and gained the south ridge leading to the summit. Our measurements of the peak at 6,068 m match with the Google map readings,” explains Subhajit.

The thrill of exploring the unknown is powerful, but experienced mountaineers know that it is also a true test of character.  “At a certain altitude, you lose energy and feel stressed both mentally and physically. You are torn between being looking out for your self and helping others. Mountains show you your true colours,” says Avantika.

Prakruti, who runs a trekking organisation, shares, “There were times when my body had given up, but I pushed myself mentally. On one occasion, I was close to tears, maybe because I was about to start my period. But the team supported me.”

Problem-solving is also a key skill on such expeditions.  “We were short of 200 metre rope for summit attempt. Any other team leader would have said that we can’t continue, but Subhajit Dada was determined. He left in the evening for base camp and walked till the road and then he took a lift to Manali. He bought rope there and returned to Camp 1, next day by 11 a.m. He made that summit possible,” adds Prakruti. Truly, mountains show what you are made of!

 

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